Fly Fishing the Wind River Range in Wyoming
with Rick Ruoff, George Hunker, & Tommy Sanders
[Location] [The Right Stuff] [Skills Needed] [Best Approach] [Get There]
Episodes 4 & 5 of The Orvis Sporting Life journey up into the Wind River Mountain Range in pursuit of Brook and Golden Trout. Rick is joined for the first trek by his good friend and Orvis Endorsed Guide, George Hunker and ESPN Outdoor host Tommy Sanders for the trek up the Wind River Mountains using Llamas instead of horses as the pack animals. For their second excursion into the Wind River Range, they are backpacking up at the 11,000-foot elevation and fishing for Golden Trout.
These lakes and streams of the Wind River Range were originally devoid of trout. They were first stocked in the 20's & 30's with Brooks and Goldens using the milkcans tied to pack-mules. Later, aircraft dropped them in. Brook Trout can reproduce in lakes that do not have an inlet or outlet and are often found in abundance in high-country lakes. Golden Trout require well-aerated water to successfully spawn (stream gravel), but survive surprisingly well at high altitudes that are prohibitive to all other species of trout. Although Golden Trout are only native to the Kern River system of California, for a short period of time in the early part of this century California exported Golden Trout eggs. Wyoming was one of the very few states able to import them before California outlawed their export. The current Golden Trout world record (5 pounds) was caught in Wyoming.
Golden Trout are particularly colorful gems in the high-country and their story is an unusual one. Prior to the last ice age, about 20,000 years ago, Rainbow Trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) had migrated throughout most of the western Sierra Nevada Range from the Pacific Ocean. Then, except for the Kern River drainage on the southern end of the range, the entire Sierra was covered with an ice cap that wiped out all the rainbow trout. The rainbows in the Kern system alone survived and over the next 14,000 years adapted their coloration to match the red granite rock and golden brown substrata that comprised the bottom of the rivers and lakes they swam in.
About 6,000 years ago the ice age ended and the coastal rainbows once again found their way into the Kern River system. Because they shared a common ancestor and both spawned in the Spring, wherever the two species came into contact they hybridized. The Rainbow Trout was dominant in this hybridization and soon the Golden Trout in these shared watersheds disappeared leaving only the Rainbow. Thankfully, Golden Trout did survive in geologically isolated areas of the Sierra that the rainbows couldn't reach, and the Golden Trout we find today in California and Wyoming are descendants of these populations.
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Llama pack-trips are beginning to become popular for high country pack trips for a number of reasons. Although they can't carry as much weight as a horse, (70 - 90 pounds vs. 150+ pounds), they also don't eat nearly as much. Unlike horses that require feed to be added to the packs they carry, Llamas can generally get along just fine on available vegetation as long as you stay below the treeline. If you plan to stay above the treeline for any length of time, or if the landscape is primarily granite, you will need to pack some feed for them.
Another advantage of using llamas is that they have soft pads on the bottom of their feet as opposed to the hard hooves of horses. These soft padded feet make them not only very sure-footed, but also have less impact on the trails and surroundings. Since they are much smaller than horses, they can also move through tight twisting and overgrown trails more easily. Add to that their generally pleasant disposition, and you have a perfect pack animal for high country excursions. No need to minimize the contents of your fishing vest, just let the llama carry it up there.
No experience is really necessary for a jaunt into the high-country with llamas, though you should be in reasonable shape to get the most enjoyment from it. No need to worry about carrying heavy backpacks, but you will need to carry a light daypack through varied terrain. Those who have backpacking experience will appreciate the varied meals possible when llamas are packing. Instead of carrying all your food on you back, the llamas pack it and you can expect to take fresh fruit & produce and maybe even a bottle of wine. The llama outfitter will provide you with a list of suggested items to take along specifically tailored to your trip. You can find out more about llama packing into the high-country by contacting Lander Llama Co. by e-mail at "Scott@WyomingHiking.com" or by visiting their website.
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Part of the charm of this type of fishing is hiking into an area where there is no evidence of anyone ever being there before. To be sure you leave these high country areas in this condition, you need to use either low-impact or no-impact camping practices.
Although using a backpacker's stove is really the right answer to no-impact camping, the ambience and warmth of a campfire at the end of a day watching the flames dance above the fuel can be hard to resist and completes the experience for many anglers. If you are going to build a fire in the high country, look for areas of mineral soil such as that George used in this week's program. Dig a small pit 4" to 6" deep and 24" in diameter and place the soil you've removed where it won't get scattered. You'll need it later. For fuel, do not pull branches from trees. Use only wood you can find on the ground. Gather dry twigs and leaves for tinder to start the fire, and wrist-sized or smaller sticks for your main fuel. If you can't break these larger sticks with your hands, they are too big. We're trying to build a cheery fire, not a roaring blaze.
Get the tinder burning first and gradually add the larger pieces as the fire grows. Keep a stack of branches close by so you can feed the small fire as necessary. Before you leave the area (never leave a fire unattended) stir water into the coals to be sure they are dead out, crush the coals by tramping them down and then replace the layer of soil on top of them that you removed when you first dug the small pit.
Another option is to carry a fire blanket, spread it out over a boulder, place a layer of mineral soil on the blanket, and then build your fire atop this. You could also build a fire just on top of the boulder, but the scorched evidence of its presence is almost impossible to remove. The best option is to use a backpacker's stove and forgo the fire. The high-country and any who hike in afterwards will appreciate it, the stars will be brighter, and you may be able to observe some wildlife you would otherwise miss.
Obviously if you are going to spend a few days in the high-country and you'll have to carry everything in on your back, you'll want to plan your menu carefully. Dried pastas, mixes, and dehydrated foods are desirable because you can add the necessary water when you get there instead of packing it in. Carry a tablespoon instead of complete set of utensils. Use only one or two pots to cook with instead of three or four.
One common no-impact trick has to do with clean up after your meals. Scrape as much of the food as possible out of the pot for the main part of the meal. With the remainder, instead of using soap and rinsing the pot out onto the ground, put in some more water, bring it to a rolling boil, and make either hot chocolate or add some instant soup broth to it. Then just drink it. The chocolate successfully masks all but the most obnoxious of flavors and no soap ends up on the ground.
High-country backpacking demands a lot more of an angler than llama packing does. It demands greater physical endurance, specialized equipment, and thorough planning. Don't plan high endurance trips if this is your first time out. Better to learn the basics in two or three-day trips than to try a one-week trip into the high country right at the start.
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Synthetic longs and tops that wick moisture away from your skin are a must for comfort especially while hiking. Then lightweight synthetic fleece insulating clothing such as the Gallatin Fleece Vest, Gallatin Fleece Pullover, or Gallatin Fleece Cardigan are the best choice for an insulating layer. They offer lightweight warmth, and almost no water retention. For a final layer you need a good waterproof/windproof layer such as the Orvis "No Sweat" Parka or the Orvis Clearwater Packable Wading Jacket. With this type of a system you can add or remove layers to remain comfortable through all weather conditions and activity levels.
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The Orvis Clearview and Marquesas sunglasses fit all of the above requirements and are available in a number of frame styles to fit your personal preferences. The Marquesas glasses are also available in prescription lenses (call 1-800-548-9548 for the particulars).
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Waders are rarely used in high-country trips unless you plan to primarily fish the high lakes. Then they can be a real advantage because lake fish always seem to rise about 5 feet farther than you can cast and the waders will allow you to get closer to them. Few backpackers consider waders worth the weight to carry them, however if you are llama packing in, a lightweight pair such as the Orvis Breathable Waders is a good option. In fact with llamas packing in your gear, you might consider a lightweight Easy Entry Float Tube for fishing the high lakes too.
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A minimalist's assortment of flies should include:
This assortment will allow you to imitate mayflies, caddis, stoneflies, midges, damselflies, dragonflies, and crayfish and will easily fit inside one small box.
- Adams Parachute - dry fly - sizes 14 to 18
- Elk Wing Caddis - dry fly - sizes 14 to 18
- Hopper - dry fly - Size 12 (June-July) - Size 10 (August - early September)
- Ant - dry fly - size 16
- Beetle – dry fly – size 16
- Pheasant Tail – nymph – sizes 12 – 18)
- Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear (or similar) - nymph - Sizes 8 – 14
- Flashback Scud – Nymph – Size 16
- Wooly Bugger – Streamer - Size 6 – 10
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If you are fishing a lake, pay particular attention to any inflow or outflow of the lake. Both offer big concentrations of food. Look for riseforms, they're a dead give-away of a fish's location. Pay attention to the edge, the hedge, and the ledge. Trout will cruise the shallows (edges), especially in the morning before the sun hits the water, looking for food if they don't feel threatened. Structure (hedge) usually harbors aquatic insects and trout know it, so they check it out often. You should too. Ledges are prime spots where the shallows quickly drop off to the depths. Trout will cruise the shallow areas near these ledges so they can quickly dart down into the protection of the depths if they feel threatened.
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On the other hand, if you want to successfully fish the high lakes, perfecting your double haul is a good choice prior to departure. In lakes, the water stays still and the trout move. So do the aquatic stages of the food they pursue. An angler who can consistently cast 65 to 75 feet will be able to swim his fly in front of a lot more fish than one who can only reach 30 to 40 feet. And, of course trout always seem to rise about five feet beyond your longest cast.
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Hooking and Playing the Fish
The hooking is like any other trout, but perhaps the strike might need to be a little quicker. Most of the trout in the high-country are small compared to their lower elevation cousins because the growing season is short at these elevations. Six to 10 inch fish are common and 12" to 14" are exceptional. 16" trout are huge out this environment and typically some of the oldest fish you'll find. The smaller fish take the fly quickly and spit it out again even more quickly. Don't just strike, flinch!You'll also find these fish love to dive under rocks, and your mission is to keep them out of the rocks. Even with 6X tippet material you'll find you can move them around almost at will and rarely will you need to fight them for more than a minute or two. They are sparkling gems when you get them to hand and if landed quickly & handled gently, they will dart off quickly when released.
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The Best Approach
The best way to fish the high country is to hire a fly fishing guide that specializes in high-country trips. Orvis has a network of Endorsed Lodges, Outfitters, and Guides throughout the US and George Hunker is one who specializes in this type of trip. You can reach George Hunker in Lander at:
George Hunker
Box 524
Lander, Wy 82520
307-332-3986
e-mail: phunker@wyoming.comYou can find out more about llama packing into the high-country by contacting Lander Llama Company by e-mail at "Info@WyomingHiking.com" or by visiting their website.
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The small town of Lander, Wyoming is a good choice as a central point from which to plan your departure. Commercial airline service is available into Riverton (about 30 miles northeast), Casper (120 miles east), and Jackson Hole (150 miles northwest), Wyoming. Rental cars are available at all three airports and the trailheads into the Wind River Range are close by. A wide range of accommodations is available ranging from the nearby public campsites to the motels and bed & breakfast operations in Lander.
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- Dan Gracia