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Llama Trekking along Wyoming’s Continental Divide
By Glenn and Marilyn Pribus
Lunching on a sunny boulder at the crest of Wyoming's Continental Divide, we can see how far we have come. At nearly 11,000 feet, we are a bit winded from the boulder scramble up the last 500 feet. Our llamas, however, casually snack on some tufts of grass, making it clear these lofty heights are just a stroll in the park for them.
Our trek began three days earlier at the ranch of Therese and Scott Woodruff, owners of Lander Llama Company. We arrived the night before and received "stuff sacks" provided by Lander Llama for our personal gear. We had packed carefully, consulting the list of essentials we'd been sent, aware of the 20-pound limit per person so we wouldn't overburden our llamas.
Scott and his assistant Shad Hamilton loaded everything into a truck towing an eight-llama trailer. Nearly an hour of rough road later we arrived at our trailhead in Wyoming's Wind River Mountains in the Shoshone National Forest (America's first National Forest).
While we carried a day pack for cameras, sunscreen, bug repellent, and such, the llamas carried everything else: the camp kitchen, food for five days, tents, sleeping bags and pads, even (hooray!) folding camp chairs. By the time the llamas were saddled and loaded with our personal gear, each was carrying 80 to 90 pounds. In fact, Scott used scales to be sure the load was equal on both sides of each llama.
On the Trail
We left the truck and trailer at the parking lot at about 8,800 feet of elevation and hit the trail with our llamas. As we hiked, the eight "civilian" trekkers gradually got acquainted. Several were experienced in the outdoors, but another was a Manhattan investment banker who had never slept in a tent. The youngest was 29, two were in their 60s.
Our trail first descended to cross the Popo Agie River, then climbed again into the Popo Agie Wilderness Area. Scott explained that Popo Agie (mysteriously pronounced po-PO-zhuh) is Shoshone for "beginning of the waters."
Wilderness areas are rigorously protected areas with National Forests. No motorized vehicles are allowed, nor are overflights less than 2,000 feet above the region. This leaves wilderness visitors in profound quiet and tranquillity.
Our campground the first night was at 9,100 feet, and Scott and Shad demonstrated how to set up our tents. Some assembled their fishing rods and headed for the nearby lake, others chatted or read. After dinner, some lingered around the campfire, but most headed for our tents and a good night's sleep.
Our days begin with Scott's "Breakfast!" call at about 7:30 a.m. After breakfast, we strike the tents and pack up our gear. It takes a good hour to get the llamas loaded and ready to hit the trail. By the time we leave camp, the sun has warmed the chilly morning air, and we've packed our jackets and long pants in favor of T-shirts and shorts.
Wilderness trails are often rough with tree roots, muddy spots, and boulders, as well as steep inclines and down slopes. A sharp eye and well broken-in hiking boots with the right kinds of socks are essential. Each day we swap our hiking boots for waterproof sandals to ford at least one swift running mountain stream.
The camp sites are six to seven hours (five to six miles) apart with frequent breathers, photo-ops, and a lunch break. Both lunch and overnights are always close to a stream or lake to provide drinking water and some very fine trout. To ensure purity, water is filtered or chemically treated.
We spent two nights at our second campsite. Then, after a swim and fishing in Coon Lake at 10,600 feet, we made our way up to the Continental Divide. From the Divide, as we eat our lunch, we can see for perhaps 50 miles. We've only been on the trail for three days and are stunned, remembering how the pioneers trekked for months at a time without the help of modern maps or boots or camping gear.
On the way down from the Divide, a dark local storm looms over us, bringing lightning, thunder, rain, and hail. Except for that one hour, however, the skies are clear, the temperatures mild, and the air calm.
A Llama Is More than Long Eyelashes
Llamas are gentle, sure-footed pack animals native to the Andes. Members of the Camelidae family, they are strikingly dignified with expressive eyes and ears. Their two-toed, padded feet and discreet droppings have a low impact on the environment, and they forage gently for food by nibbling on bushes, grass, tree bark, and an occasional daisy.
Llamas are trained to be led individually by trekkers or to travel one behind another in a string. Only male llamas go trekking--the females, almost constantly pregnant, stay home.
We soon learned that llamas have a lot in common with humans. Some are standoffish, others love a gentle rubbing of their necks. Some are athletes, some are couch potatoes, and some--particularly "Buffalo Bill"--deliver a fairly constant commentary on the day's events.
We especially admire "Buffalo Bill" for his personality and work ethic. He's the one entrusted with the ice chests, and when another llama, the ill-named "Striker," lies down and refuses to carry any more that day, Buffalo Bill ends up taking most of the additional load without complaint.
"Bill's an athlete," says Scott.
He and Therese own nearly 50 llamas and have bred many of the younger animals themselves. Other llamas have names like Laker, Journey, Dandy, and Bandit.
Come and Get It!
Questionnaires sent before the trip ensure that individual tastes and diets are accommodated. Breakfast isn't freeze-dried stuff, but hearty items like hot oatmeal, bagels toasted in a frying pan, or flapjacks with strawberries.
At mid-day, we share a sandwich and fresh fruit buffet spread on a suitable boulder. We also enjoy incredible cookies baked by Therese and different every day. ("I'm going to sell these on the Internet," brags Scott.)
In addition to the food packed in, dinner may include fresh trout caught by some of the trekkers. Scott and Shad use a two-burner propane stove, turning out beef stroganoff, grilled chicken, and burritos served with wine and tempting desserts (also baked by Therese).
Alone with Nature
On the first and last days, we encounter a couple horse-packing groups and lead the llamas into the trees. The horses are spooked by llamas, although the llamas are clearly unimpressed by the noisy horses. We also meet a few campers, but mostly the 10 of us are alone in the wilderness. We do spot some moose, elk, deer, antelope, tiny chipmunks, and a variety of birds.
A highlight of the trip is the amazing variety and quantity of wildflowers blanketing grassy meadows and clinging to rocky slopes. Every color of the rainbow glows in profusion.
Bob, 65, is a veteran of outdoors adventure, including an earlier llama trip in Washington state. He has high praise for the guides, especially Scott, who is an officer in the International Llama Association.
"Scott is obviously respected by his colleagues," Bob says. He also applauds Scott's knowledge of nature, lore-like Indian history, and his dedication to current environmental issues.
"You can tell Scott is involved in the larger good," he says.
In case of emergency, Scott can summon a rescue helicopter which could be on scene in 45 minutes or less.
"Scott gives you a lot of freedom, yet he's certainly in control of everything," Bob concludes. "You always feel like you're in good hands."
For More Information...
If you are interested in making the trek, contact Lander Llama Company, Scott and Therese Woodruff, 2024 Mortimore Lane, Lander, WY 82520; call (800) 582-5262; visit the company Web site at www.LanderLlama.com; or e-mail Scott@WyomingHiking.com
There are a variety of accommodations in Lander. Even Scott and Therese have transformed their former milk house into "The Bunkhouse," a rustic, all-season lodge pole facility that sleeps up to five and includes a full kitchen. We slept there the nights before and after the trek, relaxing to the sound of the Little Popo Agie River, which runs through the property. The $95/night price includes fixings for a make-your-own breakfast, and there's a special bag of feed that brings llamas hustling to the fence when you call, "Yummy, yummy, yummy!"
The closest commercial airport is Riverton, Wyo., and Lander Llama will provide round-trip transport for $40 per truckload. Lander also has a general aviation field (LND), and you can be picked up there as well. Call Hasting Aviation Inc. at (307) 332-3119 for more information.